Madagascar: Lemurs, Waterfalls & Eco Travel Done Right

Sitting off the southeast coast of Africa, this island is unlike anywhere else on the planet. It’s home to ancient baobab trees, vibrant green highlands, and animals that exist nowhere else in the world including, of course, lemurs. We only had time for a quick trip there from Mauritius, but even with just 48 hours, we got to enjoy a few of Madagascar’s highlights! Here’s how we made the most of the two and a half day trip to Madagascar.

We landed in Antananarivo (locals call it “Tana”) and made our way straight to the top of the hotel to catch a beautiful (but cold) sunset! We grabbed some local Phoenix beers and finalized details for a private driver for the next two days, the safer option than driving ourselves and the cheaper option than taking tours. The next morning, we got up early and headed out to visit the Lemurs' Park and Lilies Falls:

The Main Event: Lemurs’ Park

Now let’s talk about what brought us here in the first place- King Julien XIII from Madagascar! Mostly kidding. But we were very excited to see the lemurs up close and personal and in the right way.

While google may say this is just 45 minutes from the capital, it is well over an hour and a half away depending on the time of day. However, it is a beautiful drive past the rice fields and locals hand making the bricks.

Finally we made it to the Lemurs’ Park, a privately owned, open-air sanctuary that has reforested the land over the past 25 years and created a haven for various species of rescued lemurs. The best part? The lemurs are totally free to move around. You’re walking among them and observing them jumping along the wooden fences, but there are no cages, no petting, and no gimmicks.

They’ll leap right over your head, sometimes land just a few feet away, and stare you down with those large curious eyes. The park guides are passionate conservationists and full of fascinating info about each species, their behaviors, and how deforestation has impacted Madagascar’s biodiversity. You’ll also learn about native plants, medicinal herbs, and the famous baobab trees which really do look like they’re growing upside down.

Madagascar is home to over 100 species and subspecies of lemurs, making it one of the most biodiverse primate habitats on Earth. These creatures exist nowhere else in the wild and100% of the world’s wild lemurs are endemic to Madagascar.

Interesting Facts about Lemurs:

• Ring-tailed lemurs are the most recognizable, but the indri, one of the largest species, is known for its haunting, song-like calls that echo through the forests.

• Mouse lemurs, the smallest primates in the world, are no bigger than a teacup.

• Lemurs are highly endangered—about 94% of species are at risk, mostly due to habitat destruction and illegal hunting.

• Many lemurs are female-dominant, a rare trait in the animal kingdom.

• Some species, like the sifaka, are known for their hilarious sideways hop when crossing open ground- the Sifaka lemurs were absolutely my favorite ones!

For the best chance of spotting lemurs in the wild, visit Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, Ranomafana, or Anja Community Reserve. Early morning or dusk are prime times for viewing. But for our quick itinerary, this was definitely the next best thing and it was definitely eco-travel done right: immersive, educational and ethical.

A Day Trip to Lily’s Falls

If you’ve got the time (and the stamina for a few hours in the car), I highly recommend a side trip to Lily’s Falls, also known as Chutes de la Lily. Located near Ampefy in central Madagascar, Lily Falls is a picturesque 25-meter waterfall cascading into a natural pool surrounded by volcanic rock formations. Its name comes from a local legend about a young girl named Lily who tragically drowned there, her story is now part of Malagasy folklore.

You’ll pass rolling green hills, volcanic lakes, rust-colored earth, and small villages that offer a glimpse into rural Malagasy life. The waterfall itself is tucked into a lush valley and surrounded by natural rock formations. It’s not a crowded tourist site, which makes it feel even more special—like you stumbled into your own private piece of paradise.

However, you will be forces to hire a local guide who will walk you across the small bridge and explain some of the history. Thankfully he spoke French fairly slowly and used more basic words so that we could follow along easier. Expect to pay about $10 for a local guide and to be swarmed by the local children selling their crafts.

The Queen’s Palace in Antananarivo

The Queen’s Palace, perched on the city’s highest hill, offers panoramic views and a fascinating dive into Madagascar’s royal past. The original palace burned in 1995, but the restoration efforts are beautiful, and the museum on-site tells the story of the island’s 19th-century monarchs and the complex history of colonization that followed.

Here you also need to get a guide (tip was expected) to explore the grounds. He spoke English which was very convenient and obliged our request to complete the tour in under an hour. He quickly took us around the palace and explained the fascinating history of the country from the reigning Kings and Queens to Colonization to modern day Madagascar.

The views from the top of the Palace were a beautiful 360 of the entire city below! Next we hustled to the Croc Park, but it was quite depressing. Unlike the Australian version I visited in Darwin, this was a depressing park of animals in cages and SO many massive crocs lying around in the sun on top of their mound of dead chickens. This is an easy skip as there are so many other things to see and explore in the area.

Got More Time? Here’s Where to Go Next

If you’ve got more than 48 hours, please don’t stop there. Madagascar is huge and full of bucket-list-worthy places. Here are a few add-ons worth flying or driving for:

Avenue of the Baobabs

Located on the western side of the island near Morondava, this stretch of ancient baobab trees lining a dusty red road is pure magic. This surreal stretch of Grandidier’s baobab trees has trees over 800 years old and is one of Madagascar’s most iconic sights. The towering trunks can reach 30 meters high, standing like silent guardians over a dusty red road near Morondava in western Madagascar.

How to Get There:

• Nearest town: Morondava (fly or drive from Antananarivo)

• By air: Flights to Morondava operate from Antananarivo via Tsaradia Airlines

• By road: It’s a 10-12 hour drive from the capital—best done over 2 days

• Best time to visit: Sunrise or sunset, when the trees cast long shadows and the sky lights up in vivid oranges and pinks

• Add-ons: Visit Baobab Amoureux (the “Lover’s Baobabs”) or Kirindy Reserve to see nocturnal lemurs and fossas

Nosy Be + The Nosy Islands

If beaches are calling your name, head north to Nosy Be, Nosy Komba, or Nosy Iranja. These tropical islands are all about crystal-clear water, white sand, and laid-back luxury. Perfect for scuba diving, sailing, or simply relaxing with a fresh coconut in hand.

Travel Tips for Visiting Madagascar

• Fly into Antananarivo (TNR)—and give yourself some cushion time for delays or unpredictable traffic.

• Hire a driver: Trust me, this isn’t the place to test your international stick-shift skills. It was also a FAR cheaper alternative to doing tours to the exact same places. It cost $100 per day including gas.

• Go during the dry season (May–October) for the best weather and road conditions

• Pack layers—it gets chilly in the highlands at night.

• Please don’t touch or feed wildlife, and always go with guides who support conservation.

• Bring cash for rural areas, and don’t expect Wi-Fi once you leave Tana.

Two days was far too short, but it was absolutely worth it and I look forward to making it back to visit the Avenue of the Baobabs!